Venue: Edmunds Bistro de Luxe, 6 Brindleyplace, B1 2JB; website
Quietly sipping a glass of Laurent Perrier, looking across a dining room of meticulously laid tables, the idea that Edmunds' new incarnation — the more accessibly billed Edmunds Bistro de Luxe — had actually become more accessible, seemed like a stretch. And nothing about the food we enjoyed (because enjoy it we did) suggested a change of tenure, apart from the pricing. Our pick was a supreme of guinea fowl, so, the breast of the bird off the bone, with the wing joint attached. Served with luscious girolles mushrooms, the addition of blackberries to the beautifully constructed plate was the dish-defining twist, which cut through an otherwise rich combination. You can get the dish within a six-course set menu (£60), for lunch or an early supper as part of a two-courser (£19), or as a single plate (£20). However you proceed, expect the same service, interior and quality of cheffing. And do listen to the sommelier, who made some wonderfully unexpected recommendations. Menus
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