Nörskje: Dinner is Served

Nörskje: Dinner is Served

Behind the floor-to-ceiling windows a shift of seismic proportions has been building

Digbeth Dining Club favourites, Fybin and Loin (a Brummie-accented spelling of "fibbing and lying") have taken over the kitchen and, under new management, the food offering has been transformed into something which gives you little reason to ever leave - there's brunch, a reinvigorated deli and afternoon teas. From Thursdays to Saturdays, starting this very day, there's also dinner. And it's really rather good.

It's ox cheek. And with a spoon of marrow, a hint of onion puree and a taste of the eye-closingly satisfying reduction, it's perfect. One of around ten main plates on the evening winter menu, this dish is by no means the exception - the team are doing enviable things with hake, as well as serving up Comté in a glorious fonduesque creation that blows rich and perfectly formed kisses to the maple smoked pork rib-eye.

There are lighter but no less tasty options to keep the meat-suspicious beaming from ear-to-ear. Seared, crispy sea bass is served with pickled and roasted aubergine, samphire and a chilli and fennel salad. The dish, at £10.50, is a wallet-friendly, texture sensation which was perfected one night at DDC, when an idea turned into the sale of 270 sea bass fillets in quick succession. In fact, every dish we tried (and we tried *a lot* of dishes) felt like the culmination of something - of more than 40 years' collective experience from kitchens, pop-ups, food trucks and classically trained chefs. And it would be remiss to think that the refreshingly affordable menu will stay the same for long. This is a team in listening mode, whose food will evolve with the seasons and with Fybin and Loin's next glorious experiment.

If you're fortunate enough to find yourself in the Edgbaston area in the day, you've got a number of Nörskje-based decisions to make. There are serious brunch options from 8am, Mondays to Fridays and from 9.30am on Saturdays. There's afternoon tea daily from 3.30pm. And there's a deli full of gourmet sandwiches, soups and salads (as well as all the produce used by the team). If you can get it, try the Reuben. With pastrami made in three stages over a seven hour period, the team is rightly proud of the door step of a sandwich, which comes in lightly toasted Peel & Stone bread, with sauerkraut and aged Gruyère. It's most popular creation, you can go for half portions and get it with soup for £5. So that's Winter solved.

Nörskje is open from Mondays at 8am until late on Saturdays. More here.