"You Choose" - Ben Tesh's pop-up at Urban
Once a week we walk into a restaurant and make the staff order for us
Venue: Ben Tesh's pop-up at Urban, 30 Church Street, B3 2NP; website
Choice: Horseradish & apple (part of £39.50 tasting menu) Chooser: Ben
"I want to shove my face in this bowl" was where our guest was at on tasting course number eight. Yep, eight plates, bowls and beautiful shell-like receptacles down and we would have wholeheartedly oohed and ahhed our way through at least half of the dishes again. From the emulsion that was made of forest, to the mollusc broth, to the jagged hazel-nutty, toffee and chocolate creation which closed proceedings, there were so many elements of this experience that simply demand attention. By a kitten's whisker, it was the lovage vinegar pickled cucumber with lemon verbena leaves, a horseradish foam mousse and pressed apple granita that got our pick. Apparently dividing diners utterly, the pimped up palate cleanser offered bite and bitterness enveloped in a cool, creamy, calm that would probably also do a brusque trade as a face mask. Accomplished cheffing, with matching wines from Connolly's (for £20), this relaxed pop-up runs Thursday to Saturday evenings. Book
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