"You Choose" — Opus
Each week we walk into a restaurant and make the staff order for us
Venue: Opus, 54 Cornwall Street, B3 2DE; website
Choice: Jimmy Butler Pork (£15 for 2-course lunch in Jan) Chooser: Chef
As Opus re-opened its reassuringly heavy doors for 2018, we were there. The menu's had a right proper shake-up over the new year, and we exclusively ate dishes that are new to the dining room. Big up to the cauliflower cheese nectar (soup) we impolitely inhaled by way of pre-starter. And a shout out to the nut and seed rolled goats cheese mousse which is served with charred veggies and a slightly tart brown butter vinaigrette. Talking mains, the slow-cooked Cornish lamb is a lot less rich than it might sound — served with a sweet potato, chickpea and lentil dahl. Precisely as rich and wintry as it sounds is the dish which chef rightly predicts to be a crowd pleaser this year. A Jimmy Butler pork fillet is wrapped in Parma ham and served with a slow braised pig's cheek, wholegrain mustard mash, celeriac and apple. And if that sounds like a combination that should work, that's because it absolutely does, with the celeriac, mustard and apple lifting the heavier meaty elements of the dish. Throughout January, Opus is offering 50% off lunch, and 50% off dinner Monday to Wednesday if you mention ICB when you book. Full details
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