"You Choose" — Sky by the Water

Each week we walk into a restaurant and make the staff order for us

Venue: Sky By The Water, Resorts World, Pendigo Way, B40 1PU; website
Choice: The Apple (£6) Chooser: Pastry chef, Darryl Collins

Booking into a restaurant for its first ever night of service is a risky game, but as 100% of our team gave up successful careers to work in the world of independent businesses, you could say we're professional risk-takers. And golly-gosh-gandy, this was a risk worth taking. Having trained in the kitchens of Raymond Blanc — and closer to home — Brad Carter and Andy Waters, head chef Aaron Darnley is putting out some seriously accomplished food, that also manages to be homely and the right side of refined. The mushroom risotto was actually, properly al dente and actually, properly seasoned. Laced with truffle oil and packing a flavour-filled punch, it's just £5.50 (FIVE POUNDS FIFTY!), and the best risotto we've had in the city. The sticky, mouth melter of a pork belly (£16) is the right answer on mains, coming with a jug of extra gravy as standard, and now we have to move on to pud before running out of space. Holy s**t the desserts, by Bake Off: The Professionals finalist Darryl Collins, are sublime. At just £6 a go, we greedily demolished all five puds, from a grown-up take on an arctic roll (remember those) to the doyen, known only as The Apple. The show-stopper of a dish sacrifices nothing in substance for its style and is easily the best thing anyone's done with spiced apple compote this decade. Having undergone a mahousive refit Sky By The Water is a stunning space, with faultless service and an ardently sunny disposition. Menu