You Choose: Ynyshir

You Choose: Ynyshir

Each week we walk into a restaurant and make the staff order for us

Venue: Ynyshir, Eglwys Fach Machynlleth, SY20 ETA; Website
Choice: More than two-thirds of the menu, which is at least 20 courses (£110) 

"What do they know about cooking that all the other restaurants don't know?", "This is my Disney World", "To improve the quality of all food, every chef ever should just eat here" are a few of the things we said whilst beaming and luxuriating and tearing up at Ynyshir, which, long story short, is serving the best food we've ever eaten. The flavour and meat-obsessed restaurant with rooms is on the edge of Snowdonia in mid-Wales, and Birmingham is fortuitously its closest major city. While that still makes it a fair old drive or train ride (to Machynlleth), for chef patron 
Gareth Ward's wagyu beef alone, it's a journey, nay, a pilgrimage, you need to make. We could write this entire piece on any of the 23 (not a typo) bite-sized courses we were lucky enough to try, such is the other-level quality of what Ward and his young army are achieving but the lamb rib (pictured), the pollock, the pork belly and the Welsh wagyu were particularly world-changing, with an unparalleled intensity of flavour and the proper treatment of fat uniting them in glory. The single draw-back? The supreme quality of what Ward is doing will ruin all other restaurants for you. If Ynyshir doesn't get a second star this year, Michelin is dead to us. Menu


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