Canal Like a Pro

No qualification required

Every piece of national Birmingham coverage in the whole world, ever, references the length of our canals, but to what extent do us indigenous types know or make use of them? Paddling the 100 miles of navigable water around Brum in an inflatable red kayak penning her memoir (which came out Thursday), journalist, gardener and all round badass, Alys Fowler, kind of knows all of it. And now you do too.

Walk — Farmer's Bridge Flight

"Some people might not even call this a walk, just their commute, but heading out to the Jewellery Quarter from the waterways close to the Sealife Centre, the 13 locks you'll find are an incredible feat of architecture, and well worth closer inspection. It sounds nerdy but look out for ridges in the cobbles along the towpaths, used by the ponies which historically pulled narrow boats along the waters."

Pub — The Dog and Doublet

"Towards Minworth, there's a beautiful redbrick canalside coach house, in which time has pretty much stopped. Having heard it was good, we went on a long paddle out to The Dog and Doublet, which is very much the place for ales and chips and curry sauce — a proper Birmingham pub — and surrounded by an expanse of swooping fields and vistas, like so much of the edges of the city."

Architectural spot — Engine Arm

"To me, the Engine Arm Aqueduct feels like a floating canal, sitting across the mainline branch to Wolverhampton. If you're curious you can walk along the top of the striking red, blue and cerise green structure, and peer down at the water below. Close to Smethwick Galton Bridge, it was designed by Thomas Telford and is a place I've returned to regularly since spotting the rare construct."

Canal trip — Dudley Tunnel

"I know everyone says you should really go to the Black Country Museum, but you actually should. And while you're there be sure to take a tour of the limestone caves, just up the waters. They were mined for years and what's left is a bizarre, cold, wonderful place, which is like going into Middle Earth and coming back out again. Journey down a little tunnel full of stalactites and minerals, then get dropped off by the side of the canal 45 minutes later."

Bird life — Kingfisher spotting

"I saw a beautiful pair of kingfishers out towards the canal under the M6 recently. But they don't always return to rest in the same place, so if you want to find your own, they'll be in mud banks across the network from May. Look for a mouse-sized hole in the banks and a slightly unpleasant, fishy smell. Kingfishers regurgitate a small pellet of fish bones a few times each day, which is why an odour follows them. Identify females from their lipstick pink beaks."

Best of the best of the best

"There are so many spots to choose from but I always return to the high line behind the Custard Factory, which is an urban slice of inner city Brum. And, I like to think, our very own High Line Park, New York. The Icknield Loop is well worth a visit too. It won't be the same for long with plans for housing to be built around the site, but despite its slightly rougher areas, it's actually really beautiful."

Hidden Nature: A Voyage of Discovery is available to buy right now. Alys will be talking about her book at Ikon on Saturday as part of Flatpack's Gongoozling Day.

Imagery: Ross Jukes (Gas Street Basin, Farmer's Bridge Flight), Barry Jackson — Wiki Commons (The Dog & Doublet), Alys Fowler (other canal imagery).


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