Cheese and Chablis?

If anyone tells you you've grated too much Parmesan on your pasta, put them firmly in Coventry. You don't need that kind of judgment in your life. What you do need is Cheval Blanc's new cheese menu. Yep, that's an entire carte devoted to one, wondrous thing and wines by the glass that are going to elevate that thing into audible appreciation territory. When we stopped by it was handsome bartender-slash-superhero Rory's favourite — unpasteurised cow's milk called Waterloo — that sung. Soft and mild, its distinctive yellow colour is due to the natural carotene in the Guernsey milk which makes up the buttery beaut. Boasting just the one thing in common with that unfortunate dog they killed off in Downton, the Oxford Isis was another firm fave. It's £12 for five cheeses, with which you get a splendid range of crackers and quince sort of things.