"You Choose" — Carters

Venue: Carters, 2C Wake Green Road, Moseley, B13 9EZ; Website 
Choice: Yoghurt, sea buckthorn, ants (8 courses, £85) Chooser: Taster menu

There was an awful moment during our meal at Carters where one I Choosestaffer broke into Carly Simon. "Nobody does it better," he warbled. "Makes me feel sad for the rest. Nobody does it half as good as you. Bradley, you're the best." Chef Brad Carter either couldn't hear from the open kitchen (please, God) or was saving everyone's blushes by refusing to react. It was the above dish that did it. Well, the six preceding glasses of immaculately paired wine will have played a role, but this yoghurt, sea buckthorn and wood ants combo — which might not appeal to everyone — really resonated with him. Other, less insecty successes included a buttery cow's cheese dish called Bix, that was so mercurial we wanted to drown the chef and his entire team to see if they're a kitchen-based coven of witches. Bonus points (as if they need them) for the four 'snacks' that kicked the meal off. The oyster in beef fat bought with it more theatre than an Andrew Lloyd Webber Charade, while the chicken liver cereal was the sort of "breakfast" we can finally get on board with. Carters: still probably the warmest welcome in town. Our singing: still excruciating. Menu