"You Choose" — Maribel

Venue: Maribel, 6 Brindleyplace, B1 2JB; website
Choice: "Quiche Lorraine" (£90 for nine-courses) Chooser: Waitress

It turns out, there's a lot to be said for doing what you enjoy. Having given up his eponymous Harborne haunt, Chef Richard Turner's back in the kitchen and leaving the business-side of things at Brindleyplace newbie, Maribel's, doors. And he also happens to be serving up the most interesting and enjoyable plates of his career. From a masterful smoked eel, horseradish and apple bon-bon, to a grin-inducing plate of mash, caviar and seaweed, Turner is putting triumphant things together, and having fun whilst doing it. And yes, it is rather more complicated than that technically — but it doesn't feel it — and that's a refreshing way to enjoy a tasting menu. Dishes like the tomato, curd and seed (pictured) show Turners' commitment to putting only what is necessary on the plate — and that simplicity allows the flavours and combos he's crafted to sing beautifully and with power. GM, Gilles Larroques, is a total dude, and the calming yin to Turners much-less-raging-than-it-used-to-be yang. Let him lead you entirely on drinks. Our pairings ranged from sparkling sake, to vodka martini, to an excellent Lebanese red — despite his wonderfully French demeanour, Larroque is not bound to the classics. Ace food, ace service — put it on the list. Current menu