"You Choose" — Pulperia

Venue: Pulperia, 33 Brindleyplace, B1 2JB; website
Choice: Rib-eye (£28.95) Chooser: Front of house

There's a special part of hell reserved for people who ruin good steak. It's easy to do and seems to happen in restaurants throughout the city. Pulperia, run by Aktar Islam, your man behind Michelin-starred Opheem, is doing it right. So, so right. You've got to have confidence in a chef who doesn't have salt or pepper on the table. Quite right too, because this rib-eye was off the scale — seasoned to absolute perfection, those salty hits borrowing your tastebuds for a mouth-based British bulldogs, and parking them back where they belong when they're done. This is an Argentine steakhouse sat plum in the middle of Brindleyplace and they are serving rare cuts of stupendous beef in easily one of the most beautiful restaurants in town. The decor, sweet Molly Malone, is gorgeous. And those thick, silky red wines play Barry White with your throat. But the beef. This is the mouthful of meat you need, slightly bloodier than you ordered showing chef knows what you really wanted. And the Morcilla (£9). The Morcilla is a caramelised onion and blood sausage of sorts, Spanish bought and utterly sublime, it's cut by the tomatoes it's served with and dances to the palate, a balance of excellence. The rib-eye and the fries were, of course, the show-stealers, but the top tip is the humita (£5), a sweet, steamed corn puree that blew all and sundry away. What a ride. Menu